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Gator on the go
By Perry Stewart
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Published: Friday, June 11, 2004
Traditional Cajun and creole, plus some “Cajunized” Italian dishes.
The motto of this new arrival in historic Old East Dallas is “Quick & Cajun.” Its cozy home between Carroll and Peak streets formerly housed a Kentucky Fried Chicken store, and the drive-through from that era is retained.
Happily, quick doesn't mean compromised. Owner-chef Ivan Pugh cooks from scratch. And, as befits his Baton Rouge roots, he's properly versed in the French provincial origins of Cajun cuisine and its various Spanish, African and West Indian influences.
Photo courtesy of Fort Worth Star-Telegram
The Cajun staples etouffee and jambalaya share star billing with three succulent varieties of gumbo: shrimp-oyster, alligator-crawfish and chicken-andouille. None is fiery hot, but the Alligator Cafe provides a wealth of bottled heat at its condiment stand. In addition to the familiar Trappey's, Tabasco and Cholula, there are brands with names such as Vampire, Widow and Virgin Sacrifice.
On the milder side is the homemade “gator sauce,” a mayo-based delight that Pugh likens to a “tame remoulade.” It's great on anything.
The cafe has almost as many soft drink varieties as it does hot sauces. Among them are homemade cream soda and root beer. We chose the latter, which was excellent.
As for the alligator meat: No, it doesn't really taste like chicken. It's kind of like eggplant, in that it takes on the character of whatever it's cooked with. Besides its gumbo presence, gator is served in jambalaya form, stewed, grilled, blackened or fried in a basket with french fries, hush puppies and pickled green tomatoes. (Fried items are cooked in cholesterol-free peanut oil.)
Based on the quality and taste of the bayou basics, we put a couple of hybrids -- Cajun fettuccine and Pasta-laya -- at the top of our try-these-next list. Speaking of hybrids, the sweet potato pecan pie tempted. Instead, we opted for bread pudding with whisky sauce, which was heavenly.
Caring and efficient. If you're dining-in, order at the counter and pay in advance. They'll either call your name or bring the food to you, depending on how busy they are.
The costliest item is a 30-piece assortment of chicken wings for $15.75. Gumbo is $3.25-$3.75 a cup, $4.75-$5.25 a bowl.
Fried items range from $5.75 (whole catfish) to $8.25 (six jumbo shrimp). Specialty entrees such as alligator sauce piquant and jambalaya range from $7.75 to $8.75.
Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Closed Sunday.
No alcohol yet; beer and wine permit applied for.
Major credit cards accepted; smoke-free; wheelchair-accessible.
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